A picture-postcard landscape of jagged granite mountain peaks, rushing streams and waterfalls, glacial lakes, and groves of golden aspen splashed amongst stately Ponderosa pines and junipers, the eastern Sierras offer an escape into wilderness that challenges the body and nourishes the spirit. This was sacred ground to John Muir, the philosophical environmentalist who mused:
“Another glorious Sierra day in which one seems to be dissolved and absorbed…Life seems neither long nor short, and we take no more heed to save time or make haste than do the trees and stars. This is true freedom, a good practical sort of immortality.”
On the trails of the eastern Sierras, I feel that freedom and sense of practical immortality, where the only moment is now. It is a breathtaking landscape, both literally and figuratively. With trails starting at a minimum of 7500 feet, we have entered the realm of high altitude hiking. At this elevation, there’s less oxygen for the task ahead—although neither one of us is unduly affected until we get to 10,000 feet and above, we definitely slow our pace on the uphill grind.
I wouldn’t say that there are any truly easy trails in the Sierras, but there are assuredly those that are easier than others. In our four days at June Lake, we chose three nearby trails that offered us a variety of experiences, from pretty darned easy to a bit more challenging. All were gorgeous, despite the frequent rainstorms with which we played hide-and-seek. (“Looks like a break in the weather—let’s go!”) No thunderstorms, though, for which we were grateful.
• Parker Lake
This is the perfect warm-up hike to acclimatize to higher elevation hiking. The Parker Lake trailhead is close to 8,000 feet with a total elevation gain of 600 feet—primarily within the first half-mile. Other than that, the trail is mostly flat and easy. The beautiful four-mile round trip hike begins in sagebrush—be sure to turn around to admire the spectacular views of Mono Lake and Mono Craters when you stop to catch your breath along that first section. The trail then wends along Parker Creek, through a stand of golden aspen, and opens to a magnificent view of Parker Lake, a pristine alpine gem surrounded by tall mountain peaks reflected in the water.
• Devils Postpile And Rainbow Falls
Rising 60-feet out of a rubble pile, Devils Postpile is a unique geological formation of hexagonal columns artfully stacked by an ancient lava flow. In the realm of geological wonders, it’s a rarity, and considered to be one of the finest examples in the world of columnar basalt. Even to a non-geologist, it’s a magnificent sight.
Protected as a National Monument, Devils Postpile is generally open from mid-June through mid-October, depending on weather. An easy and level half-mile trail leads from the trailhead parking lot to view the grandeur of the Postpile; a steep climb then offers a look at the glacier-polished top of the columns. “I wish our stone patio at home looked this good,” I commented to Eric.
We combined the hike to Devils Postpile with Rainbow Falls, continuing on another 2.5 miles, a gradual descent through the Ansel Adams wilderness to the steep canyon that contains the beautiful 101-foot waterfall. The overlooks from the rim of the river canyon are good, but we enjoyed clambering down the trail cut into the canyon wall to the bottom of the falls for a closer look. But wow, those steps were steep on the way out—apparently made for tall people with long legs.
• Lundy Canyon
The 6-mile round trip Lundy Canyon Trail is reputed to be one of the best in the area, with vibrant High Sierra scenery packed into a relatively short, but relatively intense hike. The drive to the trailhead is a prime fall-color attraction, but the real adventure begins when you set foot on the trail.
Beginning at 8100 feet, a narrow path wends past enormous terraced beaver ponds, through a large grove of aspens, and climbs sharply up a rocky path to a view of beautiful lower Lundy Canyon Falls and the canyon below. Don’t stop here—the climbing continues on for another two-and-a-half miles, through grove after grove of golden aspen, surrounded by views of craggy iconic mountain peaks, and leading to another gorgeous waterfall before heading further up the canyon. At three miles in, we ate lunch in the rain beneath the shelter of Ponderosa pines, and then headed back down canyon, slightly damp, but happy.
Next up: Magical Mono Lake
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